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Phellos
Phellos was a significant Lycian town built on Mt. Felen in the 4th century B.C. The city occupies a long narrow area on the crest of the hill. The first indication of it on the way up is a group of four sarcophagi in a row. A little above this, several stretches of the northern city wall are still standing, but the southern wall is almost entirely destroyed down to ground level, though its line is recognizable in places. The highest point is occupied by an enclosure with a wall surrounding a hollow now filled with scrub which appears to have been a later fortification of the summit.
Below this is a largely intact sarcophagus standing on a solid base with carved reliefs on three sides. On the long south side is a man reclining on a couch holding a cup, with a figure standing on either side. In front is a table and below the couch are birds resembling pheasants. On the short west end what appears to be a warrior, but has been partly destroyed by a large hole broken into the tomb, and on the lid griffins in the two panels on the short east end is a man standing with arms outstretched while a smaller figure on the left hands him a helmet. There are a number of tombs on the south slope of the hill, some partly buried at least one has a Greek inscription of the Roman period.
Unlike many the cities of the region Phellos was very well supplied with water. There is a abundant spring on the east slope of the hill.
Getting to Phellos is not particularly easy. The road for cars goes as far as Cukurbag village where the closest point to the site is by a fire watch tower and then a steep walk along a path up the hill. The site is
on the Lycian Way (A trekking route from Fethiye to Antalya) so there is a path marked from the village, but it is a difficult climb and not recommended in the summer. Though there is not much of the town of Phellos above ground now, it can be worth the trek just to take in the incredible beauty of the surrounding area with its green vegetation and fresh air.
Above town, just off the highway was a sign at the base of the steep hillside pointing the way. My objective was Phellos, a lot further than 5 km. In fact, I think the stated distance to Çukurbağ is mistated.
For the most part the Lycian Way is adequately trail marked. Red and white stripes are painted on rocks, trees, posts and so on . Sometimes a red X indicates an apparent path not to be taken. On the other hand, I have found a lack of markings sometimes at points I would call "points of ambiguity." I have wandered off the wrong way on occasions, but have always become reacquainted with the trail. One time, though, after a little late day anxiety bushwhacking through the forest.
Also, I seem to have hiked more trail segments in reverse order of the verbal instructions, as this time. I'm more a visual person than a, well, literate one, so verbal descriptions of directions in nature are often unsatisfactory for me. And, trying to follow them in reverse order, as on this hike, does not make it any easier. However, with some experience at it, the night before I more or less "reverse engineered" the route, trying to draw a map, as I understood the instructions, for the direction of my hike.
This worked pretty well, though I lost the trail on two occasions, both in the same area. It was more aggravating than worrisome as in both instances it was in open territory
Anyway, across the plain, the middle section of the hike, I came upon a turtle, as one often does in Turkey. This one obviously had taken some shocks. One wonders how these blows were rendered, as the Turks, I have read are respectful of turtles. Falling rocks? Who knows?
Phellos was an ancient Lycian city. And it was perched on the crest of a hill seen across the plain once one climbed up from Kaş and topped the crest of the plateau.
About the first object I saw was this huge sarcophagus, sitting akilter in the bushes. These are the kinds of things that always draw my attention and wonderment. The stones are so huge and heavy, how did those people ever get them to these places!? All I could do was put my hat and pack to try and demonstrate the scale. The footing is bad enough for anyone these days with hiking boots. Was the ground any different 2000 years ago! And, what was their footwear like? Was the climate and vegetation different, absent the many varieties of thorn bushes. None of the guide books addresses such questions.”
Phellos
High City
phellos
Myra
Home of St. Nicholas
Xanthos
Lycian Capital
Phellos
High City
Antiphellos
Ancient Kaş
Tlos
Mountain City